Saturday, 10 April 2004

La Tasca

74 Deansgate
Manchester M3

It seems farmers aren’t the only people to fair well from the recent switch to GMT. As they reap the benefits of the lighter mornings, there’s a cultural minority making the most of the longer, darker nights.

It isn’t every day you end up chatting to a prostitute. One minute I was stood quietly waiting for little brother to arrive, the next I was been given a detailed breakdown of how the earnings of the average "lady of the night" can more than double once the clocks have gone back.

But this lady was not just a prostitute. She was a very chatty prostitute. In fact she wouldn’t shut up and insisted on telling me her entire life story in under a minute. By the time Chris arrived, I knew all about her childhood in Spain, about her three-year-old daughter and their planned trip to Disneyland (do prostitutes get holiday pay?) and which judge I ought to drop her name to should I ever find myself in a spot of bother.

Much more interestingly, though, Miss Whiplash turned out to be a walking food and drink guide and knew all the best eateries from Princess Street to Paris. And she clearly had money to spend. Chris and I passed on her suggestion of the French Restaurant at the Midland Hotel – "Go. And have the guinea fowl –£40 each for the main course of your life" - and instead took her advice on her native cuisine: "You can’t beat a night in La Tasca."

Now my knowledge of Spain–in terms of both the food and the language – is somewhat limited. This was made apparent in Barcelona over the summer when my request for a large slice of cake - “uno gateau grande” – was met by much laughter from the waiter. Gateau or, as it should be spelled, ‘gato,’ seemingly translates as ‘cat’ rather than ‘cake’. And as this wasn’t a Japanese establishment, our feline friends were not on the menu.

But at La Tasca, everyone is easily understood. That doesn’t mean it isn’t authentic, because it is: the décor is wonderfully over-the-top, boasting incredibly ornate mirrors, mediaeval candelabras and a myriad of framed pictures and paintings. Together with the Latin music (no Ricky Martin, thank God) and the superb hospitality, La Tasca has brought the best of Spain to the heart of Manchester. Yet the food does not play second fiddle. Not by any means.

La Tasca offers an entirely unique way of eating. The extensive tapas menu allows diners to choose as little or as much as they like. But be careful – it’s easy to get carried away. Chris and I chose four dishes each, ranging from Croquetas de Pollo - croquettes of chicken served with garlic mayonnaise (£2.95) - to Cordero en Salsa - casserole of lamb with wine, potatoes, mustard & peppercorns (£3.65). No Tapas is complete without Patatas Bravas (£2.25) and the Champinones al Ajillo – mushrooms sautéed in garlic and olive oil (£2.95) - are a must. The tangy tomato and garlic bread is perfect for ‘mopping up’ the beautiful sauces, but we were too stuffed to finish it.

For the truly authentic Spanish night out, try the house Sangria. Or go for one of the carefully selected Iberian wines from the extensive list. We had both, starting first with a pitcher of the Sangria and then enjoying a bottle of the Siglo Rioja (£12.95), which is transformed into a candle-holder when empty.

All in all, La Tasca provided us with an outstanding meal in excellent surroundings, enhanced by a friendly, helpful and knowledgeable waiting team.

As a student, I’m in no position to make comparisons to The Midland French, but at least I could keep the shirt on my back.

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